May 25, 2018
Our day began early with a 6:30 am ferry from Bol to Split. We arrived in Split an hour later, ditched our bags at luggage storage, and headed off in the wrong direction than the tourist center. We quickly turned around and headed for Diocletian’s Palace. It was so early, about 8, that we really felt ahead of the pack. We walked into the Palace and immediately went about organizing a walking tour. The next one started at 9:15 so we went to the Peristil square area to get a coffee.
My hope was that we were the only early risers and we’d get a tour guide to ourselves. Nope. There were about 10 people in our tour. In the 1.25 hours of our tour, from 9:15 to 10:30, the city got exponentially busier. By the time we were done, Nathan and I wanted to get the heck out of dodge. It was nonstop cruise ship tour group with their bad manners and ‘wham bam, thank you ma’am’ attitude to tourism. Our attitude and morale was taking a nosedive.
We started walking away. Away from the hustle and bustle, away from the people, away from the madness. It was only 11, but since breakfast was so many hours away and we hoped our bad attitude was low blood sugar, we sought out a shady spot for lunch. We found a cute little restaurant with a shady outdoor terrace to have a couple pizzas, wine and beer. The service was slow/great so we lingered over the view and free WiFi and contemplated how many bodies slept aboard the cruise ship in the harbor.
Feeling restored, we walked a few blocks to a barber shop to get a beard trim for Nathan. The nearest barber to where we were was the youngest and hippest barbershop we’ve ever encountered. 30 kuna or $4.80 later, we were on the road again.
Feeling like maybe staying 2 days in Split was a mistake, we started walking up to the hilly park Marjan. Only 178 m, so a fraction of what we hiked yesterday, but the cooler park air was doing nothing to buoy our mood. It’s freaking hot here. In a not nice, sweaty, no way to relieve it way. The busy season is still 2 months away and I’m having serious doubts about who in their right mind would come here then.
After a bit, we decided the wine and beer at lunch was perhaps a mistake and it was really coffee that we needed. We walked down from the park and enjoyed a coffee at the same shady terrace from lunch. Ok, now, now we are restored. Plus, it became overcast and the temperature is more comfortable and less don’t-touch-me cranky.
After coffee, it was time to collect our bags and check in to our room. Vanda, our hostess, is absolutely delightful, and showed us our room and gave us an abbreviated tour of the Palace area and where to get a good dinner. The cruise ship tourists are mostly back in their boat and the city and palace area are filled with an acceptable amount of hubbub.
The place Vanda recommended for dinner turned out to be superb, and our attitudes have taken a turn for the better.
