¿Está Todo Bien?

Wednesday, May 22, 2024

I again woke up early.  My Fitbit died after the hot springs, so I don’t know exactly what time it was, but I’d guess in the 4 o’clock hour.  Nathan woke up closer to 5:50.  We quickly got dressed (our room is 47 degrees), organized our gear and went outside.  At 6:30 we were given coca tea, and we watched the sun’s rays move across the mountains and valley.  

Coca tea in the morning

Breakfast was at 7 am.  We had pineapple and papaya juices, coffee, tea, bread, jam and corn pancakes.  Yum!  Franklin gave us 15 minutes to brush teeth and finish packing, before saying our goodbyes to the host community.  

Corn pancakes!

The hosts gave us a sendoff speech, and we in turn told them how much we appreciated their hospitality.  We gave some coca leaves to the women of the community, and said our farewells.

Leaving the homestay

A gentleman from the community carried our duffels on his back, and we all walked down towards Patacancha, the town below our lodging to catch the bus.  All the way down the hill, everytime we passed a local, we gave them a handful or two of coca leaves.  At the bus stop, we gave the remaining coca and ash to the man who carried our duffels.  We ran into a few kids and handed out our toys as well.  We’ve smartened up, and I’ve got cars in my pocket and Nathan has plastic putty and jacks in his pocket.

Giving out coca leaves

We waited for quite a bit at the bus stop, and a few buses passed us going the wrong way, but eventually the right bus came by and we hopped in.  This bus carries passengers and bags of potatoes.  I even saw an earlier bus with two sheep inside of it.  

Coca and toys to give

Before we got on the bus, the man from the community who carried our duffels led a few sheep with ropes tied around their necks down the road and let them wander down the road.  Now on the bus, our driver somehow negotiated with a passenger to get out and shoo the sheep down to a small grazing area.  When the bus got there, the driver and the passenger staked all the sheep into the grass, and both men got back in the bus and we took off.

Coca leaf giveaway

The bus ride wasn’t too long, and we got out and started our hike.  It’s 1 hour or so up to a pre-Inca site today, and then a downhill walk to Ollantaytambo.  Try saying that town three times fast.

Harvest of dried corn
Taking a brief rest
Walked through stickers

The pre-Inca site was interesting and we spent some time exploring it.  It was strategically positioned at the intersection of three valleys.  Up one valley for corn, the other for potatoes, and the third up to the jungle for coca leaves.  

Pre-Inca site
Pre-Inca site
Pre-Inca site
Sitting at the pre-Inca site

After the pre-Inca site we walked down an hour and a half to Ollantaytambo.  About halfway down, I started to not feel so great.  Me and my sensitive tummy.  I stuffed my pocket with Pepto and continued on.

Corn drying

The walk itself was next to Inca terraced walls, all covered with vegetation.  We saw cactus, ferns, air plants, eucalyptus, and so much more.  We also saw stunning views of the surrounding mountains.

Inca walls along the trails
Still having a good time – the views!

Once we got into Ollantaytambo, we gave a few toys away, and walked to our lunch restaurant.  I didn’t want anything, but Franklin had me order a chicken noodle soup.  Nathan had Andean hummus and a chili chicken dish over potatoes.  I was embarrassingly sick in the restaurant bathroom (why would the toilet choose now as the time to not flush?)  

Terraces

After lunch, we took a tuk tuk to the Ollantaytambo train station.  By now, it’s obvious I’ve lost my strength, so Nathan is carrying my pack.  We get our duffels from where they’ve been stored at the train station.  Not sure how it worked, but we left our duffels with the bus driver, and they ended up here.  Franklin carries mine, and his, and Nathan has his duffel and both packs.  

The views from the train

We wait in a very nice waiting area outside for the train where I’m able to just lay on a bench.  I hope it’s over.  

Once the train arrives, we wait in the longest line to show our passports and tickets and board the train.  We have assigned seats, and they are the furthest away from not only the entrance to the train car, but also the baño.  At least it has a baño.  Just in case.

We have very nice seats and the views from the train are beautiful.  I wish I could have enjoyed them.  I laid with my head on Nathan’s lap, until I needed to get up and rush to the baño to be sick again.  Once I composed myself and left the bathroom, I had a welcoming party to greet me.  Nathan was standing there to make sure I was ok, but also our car’s attendant came back to make sure I was ok.  So embarrassing.  

When your wife is sick, you memorialize it!

We go back to our seats, and I’m able to stay upright and take in some of the views.  It’s gorgeous. 

Once we arrive in Aguas Calientes, Franklin and Nathan carry my bags, and Franklin leads us to our hotel.  By now it’s 5:30, and the plan is to shower and meet Franklin for dinner at 7, but you can tell everyone thinks I’m down for the count.

Walking to our hotel carrying only our poles

We check into our room, and I get into bed.  Nathan runs to a nearby market to buy some bottled water.  He comes back to the room, and I make up some electrolyte mix from the first aid kit and slowly sip it while he showers.  I don’t feel terrible, but I am tired.  I shower, and after three days or however long it’s been, it feels so good.

I manage to combobulate myself enough that I’m able to join Nathan and Franklin for dinner.  I ordered the same soup as lunch, and while I don’t eat much, things are looking up.  Nathan had an avocado salad and trout and potatoes.  They brought us out three desserts of a scoop of chocolate ice cream and fruit, so Nathan was able to enjoy that twice! 

The plan for tomorrow is breakfast at the hotel at 4:45 am, meet Franklin in the lobby at 5 am, and catch the bus to Machu Picchu!  I hope I’m fully recovered by then.